Prague Blog

Have you noticed? I am sure you have. It is not possible to miss. Sometimes bizarre, sometimes funny sculptures in streets of Prague – I am talking here about the international open air Festival of Sculptures which takes place in the very heart of Prague right now.

This international open air happening is called Sculpture Grande and is no novelty for Prague citizens. For the fifth time already, Prague’s city centre has changed into a huge gallery with no boundaries – there is nothing like opening hours, nothing like entrance fee or walls separating you from the fresh air. Sculpture Grande offers you a quite unique experience.

You have a great chance to see works of contemporary artists from Austria, Czech Republic, France, Great Britain, Germany, Slovakia and Switzerland. The exhibition is positioned in quite specific locations by which I mean the liveliest parts of the city. You will find sculptures in places like Wenceslas Square, Old Town Square, Namesti Republiky, Karlovo namesti, streets Na Prikope, Vodickova and many others.

My personal advice to you is to visit Namesti Republiky (yellow line B) next to the Municipal House. There is my favorite sculpture – a life-sized pig getting ready for its jump out of a diving board. It is really funny. I hope you will find your favorite sculpture in streets of Prague too. You have time to discover all of them till September 18th.

Do not miss the exhibition which is held only until August 31 in Libensky zamek. This exhibition commemorates the 65th anniversary of the heroic act of Czech parachutists who succeeded in killing Reinhard Heydrich, a high-ranking Nazi official of grand importance during World War II.

Reinhard Heydrich

Reinhard Heydrich was an immensely influential Nazi, a leading planner of Hitler’s Final Solution. He was one of Hitler’s most ruthless Nazis. Heydrich was even considered a possible successor of Adolf Hitler. His nicknames “The Butcher of Prague”, “The Blond Beast” or “The Hangman Heydrich” tell you all about his evil personality.

In 1941 Heydrich became the “Protector” of Bohemia and Moravia in former Czechoslovakia and immediately started to crush the Czech resistance. As his actions were very brutal, he was soon convinced he had succeeded and thus drove in an open top green Mercedes car without an armed escort as a show of confidence in his intimidation of the resistance and successful pacification of the population. This information was crucial to the assassins.

On May 27, 1942, two Czech parachutists trained in England for assassination of Heydrich, attacked as his car slowed to round a sharp turn. They attempted to shoot him but the gun failed to fire. The backup plan was successful. The bomb thrown in his direction exploded and wounded him seriously. Reinhard Heydrich died 10 days later due to his injuries.

After the assassination

The Nazi reply was a nightmare. Relatives of the partisans, their supporters, Czech elites suspected of disloyalty as well as random people were killed or sent to concentration camps where most of them were gassed. Victims can be counted in thousands.

The most barbarous crime was that one committed on Lidice and Lezaky. Those villages were literally wiped off the face of earth right after all males over the age of 16 were shot and all women and children sent to concentration camps. Surprisingly enough, Nazi propaganda was proudly announcing this infamous act, unlike other massacres in Europe they were also responsible for.

The parachutists were found later on hiding in a crypt of a Church of Saint Cyril and Methodius in Prague. After a courageous siege, the assassins used their last bullets to take their own lives.

The exhibition

The exhibition reminds us the brave Czechoslovak soldiers who stopped one evil man but fueled other evil actions. Was it a wise thing to do? There is not an easy answer to this. However, I believe that evil must be stopped. And they tried.

Libensky zamek is situated in street Zenklova 35. You can take trams 10, 24 or 25 to station
Stejskalova. Exhibition is in first floor. It is open every Monday and Wednesday from 8:00 to 18:00, Tuesday and Thursday from 8:00 to 15:30 and Friday from 8:00 to 15:00.

To the atmosphere of the capital city belongs essentially the river Vltava. This longest river in our republic is separating the city on two almost same parts, eastern and western. Vltava rises in Sumava, where it is starting as a small babbling stream, which we would hardly find in Prague. After more than one hundred kilometres it becomes huge and respectable flow with smooth and majestic surface. But this shouldn´t calm us with the hope that the Vltava is a rival that doesn´t deserve our respect. Proof of this fact is a flood which repeats regularly, destroying bridges, swamping cellars and ruining buildings. In history a high water was big threat, and even modern times with its all available technologies loses this fight with the nature in the end. The most destructive flood happened in 2002 and some places in Prague are healing from its results up to this day.

Let´s leave this joyless theme and get over to some basic facts. Vltava is starting its way in the southern part of the Prague, then continues almost straight to the north. In the historic centre of Prague, between the Old and New City, with Hradcany on the left, it suddenly turns to the right side. After several kilometres of eastern direction it again vehemently turns back, makes heavy curve and in Troja changes the direction again and continues to the north. It´s interesting to have a look on the Vltava flow on the map, it looks like the „adult“ river wants to gambol a little, to make something unexpected before it leaves the Prague after couple of kilometres, and ends the long way. Near the city of Melnik pours to another czech river Labe. Or Labe pours to the Vltava? Oficially not, but many Prague patriots think so and looks for confirmative facts.

Both sides of the Prague, which is Vltava cutting through, are connected with twenty bridges. On Vltava river are also many islands, swimming and bathing possibilities and other sport activities. Vltava has inspired many world artists to glorious production.

The Trojan Horse is part of a myth surrounding the Trojan War which took place long long time ago. It was a really long war for nothing else but a woman, of course. And this war that I don’t know much about was put to an end thanks to the Trojan Horse.

The Trojan Horse served as a great trap. The Greeks gave a giant wooden horse to their foes, the Trojans, as a peace offering. But after the Trojans drag the horse inside their city walls and celebrated their “victory”, Greek soldiers sneaked out of the horse’s hollow belly and opened the city gates, allowing their compatriots to pour in and capture the Troy.

And this Trojan Horse is now in Prague, to be more precise on one of Prague’s islands – Cisarsky ostrov. No, it is not the original wooden horse but a replica. Nobody really knows how the Trojan Horse looked like.

Czech sculptor Ivan Nacvalac was working on his Trojan Horse with the help of his sons and friends five months. The wooden horse is made out of 12 cubic meters of pine-wood, is almost 10 meters high, 12 meters long and weights 6,5 tons. And it may be to your surprise that it is still movable.

The Trojan Horse serves as a gallery and entrance is free of charge.

Don’t miss your chance to see the work of a world known artist Andy Warhol in Prague! His exhibition is held until October 21 in Museum Kampa, so hurry up.

Andy Warhol, a celebrated pop artist, doesn’t need to be introduced. His name and work is familiar even to those who do not like art and have nothing to do with it – just one great example for all – Campbell’s Soup Cans. Don’t you tell me you have never heard of it or haven’t seen it yet.

Museum Kampa – the Jan and Meda Mladek Foundation prepared this exhibition in cooperation with the Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh, USA. That is why you can see his famous paintings such as Warhol’s portraits of the Chinese Communist dictator Mao, or his lovely Marilyn Monroe.

This exhibition bears the title Disaster Relics. It shows prints by Warhol from the beginning of the sixties dealing with the theme of catastrophes. One of the most touching works is his portrait of Jackie Kennedy shortly before and after the assassination of her husband.

The Museum Kampa is located in a great spot – U Sovovych Mlynu 2, in the centre of the Kampa Island next to the Charles Bridge. Open is daily from 10 am to 6 pm. Mondays are free of charge. On other days you pay 120 CZK for adults and 60 CZK for students.

“And where are those shoes, Mrs. Teacher ?“ I couldn´t stand my curiosity…We were in my first class on visit of the Botanic Gardens of the Charles University and the explanation of my teacher, that latin word Botanica has other meaning than I thought dissapointed me a lot (czech word for shoe is BOTA). I was so excited to see those shoes!

But my dissapointment didn´t last very long. It is like entering a completely different world. From a rush street of Albertov, where trams are tinkling, you step through the ironwork gate into the paradise – colourful, fragrant and very charming.

The exterior area of the gardens is a great invitation for both eye and soul. It is possible to see here the collection of plants from humid subtropics, divided according to the continents of their origin.. In outer garden it is worth seeing the unique Gingho Biloba, old just about 130 years. It is a kind of bonsai, first of it´s kind delivered. After seeing the outer gardens we step into covered glasshouses. Here you can see a vast amount of plants from tropics and subtropics, cactuses and palms. And also bananas are here. This is what I discovered during my first childish visit and I forgot on that shoes in a second. A huge bunch of green small bananas was a real temptation.But the notice – Don´t touch please – was expressive enough.

These bananas attracted me so that I soon asked my father to go there again. Once, twice, three-times, I didn´t dare to take the small banana a single time, but I started to understand more the beauty of the nature, and started to remember the latin names of the plants. Anyhow, I was standing near the banana palm a little longer than near the bonsai, camellia or myrtle.

During my fourth visit I suddenly saw it. It was lying directly under the banana palm, beautiful, rich yellow, and much bigger than his small brothers on the palm.When it is lying on the floor, perhaps I could take it, I thought to myself and put it into my bag. At home in the evening I took it out with a glory…banana from plastic. My daddy has never confessed!

Botanic Gardens doesn’t serve only public purposes, but it‘s also used as the educational workplace for the students of the Charles University. About twenty professional gardeners are constantly taking care of the gardens with love.

Approximately ten times a year you can visit besides the outdoor and indoor expositions some separate exhibitions (cats, parrots etc.). You can get there by trams no. 18 and 24, stop “Botanicka zahrada”. Go there, it´s worth it !

Nice and still not enough appreciated trip point is authentic medieval estate Ladronka. It was built in country baroque style. For long centuries it was used as a farm. The stony construction with strong walls and deep cold cellars was surrounded by fields. Agricultural land was comprising with city development, so the farmhouse was sliding into the centre of Prague.

Before the property relationships were solved, after the change of political regime, for ten years it has been settled by people with nonconformist and alternative life style, it became squat. After long administrative fights has the estate finally a new owner. It is being repaired and slowly gathering the primary glance.

The best way how to reach Ladronka is to take a bus number 174 to the station Vypich from Hradcanska (the underground station on route A). You can find here a restaurant, exhibition hall, also parties are held here.

But the one thing Ladronka is made for these days is sport. Around the estate is a public park with very well maintained route for cycling, and escpecially in-line skating. The route is wide and long, perfect for those who want to spend sporty afternoon here and want to make something good for the figure. Around the route are lights, so you don´t have to worry to skate in evening time. And the others who don´t like skating can simply run near the route on the grass. It is also a very nice place for a picnic on huge grass areas. Come to enjoy some sport activity here and to absorb a little bit of medieval atmosphere.

Prague is among the most attractive destinations in Europe for tourists from all around the world. But this does not mean that everything in Prague is about tourism. Prague is not only the tourist destination but also political, economical and cultural center of the Czech Republic which means that it is full of cars and mad drivers.

Most tourists walk around Prague in nice “holiday pace” – there is no need to hurry. I totally support the idea. However, there are not enough pedestrian zones in Prague yet. And so unfortunately for the majority of us, especially for tourists, Prague is intersected by great deal of big roads. Many of them, sadly, are near the most frequented tourist areas. And what is more, Czech drivers are not really polite drivers. This can be a deadly combination…

I have seen a strange situation not long time ago – not far from the Old Town Square there was a group of foreign students (I know it because they all had cameras and drinks from one big fast food). They wanted to cross the street. It was impossible for them to cross when the red pedestrian light was displayed and so they waited for the green one. However, when the green was on, the group was too big and they walked very slowly so that only half of the group made it to the other side when the green was on. The second half continued crossing the road, still very slowly. What they did not expect was that Czech drivers started to toot and drive forward. Luckily, nothing bad happened.

Conclusion? Czech drivers like to drive fast. So be careful when crossing any street. First, never cross the street where there is no crosswalk. Not only it is hazardous but also illegal and you can pay fine if caught. Second, never cross the street when the “red boy” is shining, for the same reason as mentioned above. And lastly, even if you are on the crosswalk and the “green boy” is on, look about and make sure you can go.

You see it every time you change your clothes, or when taking bath – naked human body – something we can see now almost on every TV channel and in every movie. But however outrageous it can be for some people, it is true that naked human body has inspired many artists for centuries – one example for all – Leonardo da Vinci.

It is to say that nude does not necessarily equal obscene. On the contrary, nudity can be portrayed very cleanly. And that is the case of a new exhibition in Manes gallery. It is called The Geometry of Nudity and we are talking here about pure artistic non-sexual nudity. It is truly wonderful.

The black and white pictures are from Czech photographer Pavel Brunclik. As models he had chosen ballet soloists from the National Theater in Prague. And he had chosen right. The effect is magical.

This exhibition is really eye-pleasing and I can recommend it for the whole family. Don’t worry, you will not see anything you don’t want to see. After seeing this exhibition you will feel like there is nothing as natural as nudity and that geometry is just as fascinating.

You will find Manes along the Vltava river in Masarykovo nabrezi 250. Take trams 17, 21 or bus 176, station Jiraskovo namesti. Open is daily except for Mondays from 10 am to 6 pm. This exhibition runs till July 31.

You have now a great chance to see a traveling exhibition called Money of China. This exhibition was put together by the National Library of the Czech Republic and the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Czech Republic. And it truly is interesting.

China has a long and fascinating history. For many people in Europe, China is a huge distant country with a communistic regime and population that is fairly big. Most recently, China has become the country with cheap labor force driving all European producers mad.

Anyway, this exhibition is about the history of money in China from the very beginning up to the present day. And it is to say that China is one of the world’s oldest civilizations so you will see some progress – from the shells, through money in shape of knives – neat idea, isn’t it? – through the coin money and paper money as we know them today.

In the exhibition there are English posters with brief history of every period. You will read about the problems with establishment of paper money, you will read about the unique status of Hong Kong, about the reforms that changed the planned economy into the market economy – yes it is really there! – and of course about the new versions of Renminbi, the official currency in China with its Yuan.

The exhibition is in the Klementinum Gallery, 1st floor. Klementinum itself is worth visiting so you can make two exhibitions at one time. ? It runs till August 26. Klementinum is in street Krizovnicka 190. Best accessible from the Charles Bridge.